Actively seeking relaxation? Unwind in Kosterhavet Marine National Park

Anyone who visits Sweden’s west coast can’t help but be struck by its uncluttered beauty. Everything sits so well together it’s a real pleasure to just look out, casting your eye over the smooth rocks emerging from the sea, scattered islands dotted with wooden houses, and behind them leafy swathes of green set against a deep blue Swedish sky. But it’s not long before you want to get active and get closer to it all and one of the best places to do so is Kosterhavet Marine National Park, centred around the Koster Islands, near Strömstad and the border with Norway.

Typically idyllic, the islands and waters of this new national park, which opened in September 2009, are unique in Sweden. Kosterhavet contains Sweden’s highest level of marine biodiversity and, with a deep fissure known as Koster-Väderö Fjord between the Koster Islands and the mainland, it is connected to an oceanic environment. Such deep water leads to a valuable range of marine species, including cold water coral. While Kosterhavet protects an area of 450 sq km, it is by no means off limits to visitors: through careful management a balance is struck to enable people to appreciate the area to the full.

The Sven Lovén Centre for Marine Sciences’ station at Tjärnö (formerly the Tjärnö Marine Biological Laboratory) not only carries out important research into Kosterhavet’s biodiversity but its staff enable visitors to get a fascinating insight into the park’s marine life by leading several guided tours. Taking to the waves, it’s possible to join an excursion on board a research ship, from which a remote controlled underwater vessel will beam back images to a screen. On foot, visitors can accompany a marine biologist to collect and examine creatures found on the Koster Island beaches. Walking is a wonderful way to get to know the Kosters and there is a great range of routes, across meadows and along cliffs and beaches, to try. Guided walks, available during the spring and summer, vary in length. Alternatively, just go for a ramble yourself and climb your way to the top of the Koster’s mini-mountain, at 45 metres, and drink in the far reaching views across the rocky outcrops and to the mainland.

The clear waters lapping at the edges of the Kosters are ideal for exploration by sea kayak and there are plenty of opportunities to paddle around. Whether for a morning, weekend or longer, the gneiss rock islands and islets throw up an almost endless range of routes to zigzag among them, looking out for sunbathing seals and passing birds on the way. So dense is the archipelago that in places only kayaks can pass between the islands, with pleasure boats avoiding them.

Seal safaris, to see the resident colony by boat; scuba diving; snorkelling and fishing are all part of the outdoor activities on offer in the Kosters. For a particularly tasty fishing trip, join a local fisherman in search of crayfish and help harvest the pots before returning to land and tasting your freshly cooked catch. For a different perspective, see Kosterhavet from two wheels. The car-free Kosters are ideal territory for cycling with a network of paths to pedal. Breathing in the sea air as you wind your way around the edges of South Koster, and making tracks into the green centre among the trees, is a relaxing way to soak up the natural beauty, peace and tranquillity of the island. Pull out your picnic supplies from a backpack and bask on rocks as you munch through them, or head to Sydkoster Hotel Ekenäs for a hearty meal. The family-run hotel’s Taste of West Sweden accredited restaurant offers a true taste of the west coast, with plenty of seafood on the menu. A comfortable place to stay, many of its rooms come with irresistible views of the seascape.

How to get there:

Most overseas visitors to West Sweden arrive at the coastal city of Gothenburg, and Kosterhavet is easy to get to from there. Hire a car, or take a train, and drive two hours north to Strömstad, from where a passenger ferry to the Koster Islands takes just 45 minutes.

Where to stay:

A range of accommodation awaits on the Koster Islands and in Strömstad such as Sydkoster Hotel Ekenäs on south Koster. On surrounding islands and in Strömstrad choose from hotels, cabins and campsites. For more information about visiting Kosterhavet go to www.westsweden.com.

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