A Motto for Montana

by Dan Austin

Here’s a bet you’re bound to win – ask someone for Montana’s state motto. Even if they’ve visited recently, to climb mountains, raft rivers, bike or hike or to experience Yellowstone National Park, you can bet them ten to one and still win a bundle.

Some will smile knowingly and take your wager, thinking “Big Sky Country” is the answer. And boy does that moniker fit. Travel the state from its green eastern prairies to its western white-capped peaks (a distance of some 500 miles!) and you’ll marvel at the immensity of open space and the big blue sky. But no matter the popularity of the nickname, and even its presence on some highway signs, your bet’s still safe.

Another friend might come up with “The Last Best Place,” which has gained in popularity of late as everyone from recent college grads to the just-retired look to live where they can have an active outdoors lifestyle while still enjoying the culture and convenience of big towns and small cities. When everywhere else with all these attractions seems to be full or quickly filling up, it’s no surprise that Montana’s wide-open spaces have brought it the more recent nickname of last of the best places.

So what’s the real answer? You’re going to be surprised, for it isn’t in English, and unlike so many states’ mottoes it isn’t Latin either. It’s Spanish – Oro y Plata (“gold & silver”) – and refers to what brought non-Indians here in the first place. The Kootenai, Crow, Blackfeet, Flathead, Sioux and other tribes, descendants of those who had enjoyed the place for some 10,000 years, had only a hundred whiteskins to deal with before gold was discovered in 1860.

Think about that. More than half a century after Lewis and Clark had traipsed in both directions across the state (1805-06) and reported glowingly on what they’d discovered, it was still inhabited almost exclusively by Native Americans. Then gold was found and, a single decade later, 20,000 miners and merchants had arrived (a century and a half later Montana’s population is still under one million). Their nickname for the place? The Treasure State.

It was a treasure as well for the next batches of newcomers, for the men driving cattle, the gangs laying rail, the tough ranchers and loggers and the families who came to settle the land. That last bunch is still around in big numbers, for today agriculture is Montana’s biggest industry. Timber is the biggest “industrial activity.” The nation’s largest storehouse of coal is here, and oil, and natural gas.

But best of all, in most places the state still looks the way it did way back when. Thus Montana’s growing tourism industry, and thus those wonderful tourists who come for a week or two to get their Big Sky fix. If you’re leaning in that direction, or are still wondering where to go this summer to get away from it all, I invite you to accompany me for a few paragraphs as I describe a loop of geologic wonder and of flora and fauna beyond compare – my absolute personal favorite, and I’ve lived here going on two decades. Only a few hundred miles in length, it contains much of the best this state has to offer. Sensory overload I always call it.

We begin in Bozeman, a hip Western college town that sits in the Gallatin Valley at an elevation of almost 5,000’, with mountain ranges (the Madison, Bridger, Gallatin, Tobacco Roots…) in view in nearly every direction. Main Street is lined with attractive brick buildings which, to Eastern eyes, have a bit of the Dodge City look. It’s named for John Bozeman (who laid out the Bozeman Trail in the 1860s), and it is comfortably small – fewer than 35,000 people. But the county it sits in is larger than two states!

Our loop takes us south out of town on a winding rural highway along the Gallatin River, through a canyon the river has carved over eons as the snowmelt and summer rains from the mountains rushed to lower ground. You’ll see high peaks, lush forests, roaring rapids, and soon will come to Montana’s most famous ski resort (fun in any season) – named, of course, Big Sky. In summer you can reach the highest mountain (Lone Peak – over 11,000’) by foot or, in four minutes, by tram. But either way the views are surreal.

Whether you’re catching your breath from the hike or just enjoying the panorama, this lofty spot is perfect for thinking about how these mountains came to be. As with the rest of the Rockies, it’s believed this range was created by a tectonic smash-up of unbelievable proportion, one massive “plate” shifting into and onto (or under) another, causing that neighboring piece of the broken eggshell to rise or fall.

This rumpled part of Montana is the piece that rose skyward, and which avoided the scraping, leveling action of later glaciers which, during successive Ice Ages, planed the eastern, green- and gold-brown prairie part of the state flat. Or at least much flatter. Farther south, as we near Yellowstone, we’ll come to evidence of tremendous volcanic eruptions and resulting magma flows. Eons of erosion from wind and rain and snow carved this formerly molten rock, even as geologic uplifts fought back to form new plateaus. Understanding the terrain here takes effort, for you are looking at dramatic action frozen in time – at least for now.

Let me suggest that you spend the night at a Montana guest ranch along the Gallatin River. From your cabin porch you’ll see fishermen plying the fast-moving waters for fly-wary trout. Stop early enough in the day for a horseback ride, get back in time for a barbecue. Tough life. Then sleep soundly in the cool night air (even in summer!), and awaken to another day in something close to paradise.

As you continue heading south along the Gallatin, through national forests on both sides of the road, you’ll notice the canyon getting wider as we close in on the town of West Yellowstone. A shock to the senses after all the quiet natural beauty, it’s also (I have to admit it) – fun. Everything a tourist’s heart desires, from cotton candy to an Imax Theater, from museums and a park visitors center to backwoods survival gear, is here. Knock yourself out. For it’s another – an other – world once you turn east and enter our nation’s very first national park. OK; technically the majority of the Park is in Wyoming, Montana’s close cousin to the south, but a little creative license needed here. As you’re about to discover, it was first for a reason, and after the scores of parks I’ve visited it’s still my favorite by far.

But then, why wouldn’t it be? There are ten thousand geo-thermal wonders here, half of all that exist in the entire world, a greater single collection than anywhere. Yellowstone is “the largest sanctuary for western large mammals in the lower forty-eight states,” with two thousand buffalo, twenty thousand elk, griz and black bear and moose and bighorn sheep and…, well, you’ll have to come and see the rest yourself. It’s a zoo that’s more than twice the size of Delaware – without any cages.

Wait – there’s more. A waterfall twice as high as Niagara Falls, the largest log structure in the world (the enormous Old Faithful Inn), the largest mountain lake in all North America (Lake Yellowstone), a live Tyrannosaurus Rex…. Okay, I’m kidding about the dinosaur. But all the rest is true. As is the magma you’ll be seeing soon after you enter the park from the west, evidence of “catastrophic volcanic eruptions” which spewed out so much molten rock that it collapsed what is now the center of the park, “forming a 28- by 47-mile caldera, or basin.” It is this still-boiling cauldron just below the surface that powers the mud pots, fumaroles, hot springs and shooting geysers which we all come to see.

I don’t want to, and you won’t want to, but it’s time we continued our loop north out of the park. (Hey, you can always come back.) Once you’ve torn yourself away from the appropriately named Mammoth Hot Springs (where the elk walk calmly outside the hotel and past the stone buildings of Historic Fort Yellowstone), you’ll exit through (Theodore) Roosevelt Arch, dedicated in 1903. The wonderful words chiseled elegantly into the massive stones say it all: “For the Benefit and Enjoyment of the People.”

But the beauty doesn’t end, for we exit into the wide, glacier-carved and again correctly named Paradise Valley, running north between the high Gallatin Mountains on your left and the lofty Absaroka range on your right. You’ll have marveled at the falls of the Yellowstone River inside the park; now you have the opportunity to raft its whitewater rapids. What a thrill!

Once back on the road you’ll see why the Hollywood hit movie “The Horse Whisperer” was filmed here. Those stunning skies, the mountain vistas, and the windblown waving fields of wheat which filled so many scenes were not computer-generated or created in a studio. That was Mother Nature at her best.

Lodging at its best, Montana-style, is here as well – at Chico Hot Springs Lodge (added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1999). For more than a century visitors have been soaking in the hot-spring-fed pool, gathering in the Victorian-era lobby before and after an excellent dinner, and sitting in the porch swings wishing time would stand still, at least for a while.

But it won’t. And maybe it shouldn’t. For we still have to complete our loop back to Bozeman and begin thinking about returning next year to see another beautiful piece of this big state. Glacier National Park? Flathead Lake? Oh, the choices!

Maybe it’s time to vote on a brand new motto for Montana. Put me down for The Toughest Part is Going Home!

El Salvador: Ready to be Explored!

by Holly Jones

El Salvador is an off-the-beaten-path destination loaded with impressive mountainous, volcanic and coastal landscapes that are teeming with thousands of species of flora and fauna, more adventure sports than you can imagine, an exceptional arts and crafts scene, cultural festivals, breathtaking coffee-growing highlands, and exquisite local food bursting with flavors of the mountain and sea.  This tiny country has emerged, leaving its conflicted past behind and reinventing itself as an adventure and ecotravel destination.

Adventure Sports

Surfing the world’s best beaches at dawn, mountain biking through the narrow trails of the coffee highlands at midday and peacefully paragliding through the orange and pink sunset skies, all while taking pictures of the towering volcanoes and the Pacific Ocean right in front of you are the types of daily itineraries that make El Salvador a prime destination for thrill-seekers and outdoor lovers alike.

Over the past 10 years, the popularity of adventure sports has skyrocketed in El Salvador.  As Central America’s smallest country, measuring 21,040 sq km, or about the same size as the U.S. state of Massachusetts, it’s easy to arrange amazing multi-sport adventures every day of the year.  Other sports that have become increasingly popular include: kite surfing, hiking & trekking in the beautiful national parks, kayaking, zip lining, and rock climbing.

Not Your Typical Coastline

Scenic Coastal Drive
El Salvador’s gorgeous coastline is no secret to locals or to neighboring Guatemalans, who often make a day trip out of driving down El Salvador’s scenic coastal highway, stopping for lunch on the beach and then driving back home during the sunset. The coastal highway runs dramatically along a narrow, winding route carved out of the cliffs, high above the sparkling turquoise sea. Below are black, rocky coves and crashing waves whose white sea foam contrasts beautifully against the grey sands of the shore; inland are rugged mountains, canyons and lush vegetation.  This scenic drive has often been compared to California’s Highway 1 in miniature.

Surfer’s Paradise
Well known among the international surfing community, El Salvador is home to at least 10 world-class surfing spots that dot the entire 320 km of Pacific coastline.  If you wake up early to walk along the beach, you will be privy to the site of the silhouettes of surfers’ heads bobbing up and down in the waves as they prepare to catch the perfect wave.  Lessons and rentals are available daily and the water is warm!

Mangroves & Wildlife
For nature lovers, the beaches of Barra de Santiago are your gateway to the large, well-preserved mangrove forests that hides behind the sandy peninsula.  It is comprised of seven different mangrove species and measures approximately 2,000 hectares (4,942 acres). The inner mangrove coastline is a haven for thousands of native and migratory birds. Have your camera ready as your local guide points out iguanas, lizards, marine mammals, shellfish, sea turtles, crocodiles, blue crabs and more!  Or explore by yourself in kayak!

Nearby you will find the Santa Rita Protected Area, a semi-humid tropical forest that remains lush and green even during the dry season. This forest plays a large role in otter conservation and also serves as the refuge and breeding grounds for parrots and other tropical birds.

One of the main attractions of this protected area is Lizard Pond, located right in the middle of the forest.  Park guides can take you for a hike along the beautiful forest trail and over the wooden bridges to the lookout point.  Look down into the murky water and you’ll witness one of the biggest populations of Caiman alligators in the country, literally dozens of restless reptiles right before your eyes!

Only Volcanic Beach in Central America
One of El Salvador’s most charming beaches is Los Cóbanos, where black volcanic rocks mingle with dark coral sands and smooth, warm waves.  Geologically speaking, the beach is located in an area of approximately 160 km.2 (62 mi.2) of volcanic rock formations, a unique feature along the entire Pacific coast of Central America.

These formations are an important haven to an abundance of marine species – barracudas, manta rays, octopi, lobsters, sea urchins, moray eels and starfish—all of which you’ll be able to look for when you don your snorkel gear with local guides!  Don’t forget to look for the two shipwrecks.  These relics from the late 1800s were used to transport coffee to Europe.

From Los Cóbanos, you can set out on humpback whale watching tours, hard coral snorkeling, shipwreck diving, reef diving and coastal flora & fauna walking tours.

Coffee Highlands and Colonial Villages

The lush coffee highlands of El Salvador feature a beautiful, colorful journey through five colonial towns known as the Route of the Flowers.  This mountainous region is famous for its cool, breezy climate, natural beauty, and the slower pace of life along the narrow, winding roads. This route is home to the fertile land and shade coffee bushes that continue to produce the most award-winning coffee in the country.

Traditional colonial architecture and cobblestone streets give each village a warm, inviting feeling.  Stop to savor excellent local and international dishes in rustic, unique restaurants tucked in among the dense forests and coffee plantations.  Roadside stands sell fresh produce like strawberries and fresh cut flowers.  Gorgeous panoramic vistas of the coffee plantations, volcanoes and neighboring Guatemala’s southern mountains make El Salvador’s coffee highlands the spot you’re looking for to explore and experience the warm Salvadoran culture.

The arts & crafts scene along this route is also very impressive.  “Mom & Pop” craft stores and artisan workshops feature locally made goods such as embroidered dresses, sculptures, coffee candles and hand woven textiles.  Pedal looms are still used to this day to weave colorful bedspreads, hammocks and other garments. Wicker and reed baskets and the high quality furniture made from caña de la india (Indian shot), cedar and bay wood have earned the local artisans fame around the world.

Trips Available with EcoExperiencias El Salvador

Help these small communities and support conservation efforts with EcoExperiencias El Salvador.  Since 2007, the international and local staff has combed the countryside to create fascinating experiences that highlight the country’s unique cultural, natural and geographical qualities in the departments of Sonsonate and Ahuachapán.

EcoExperiencias El Salvador is currently featuring these exciting itineraries with international tour operators GreenSpot.travel and G.A.P Adventures.

Check out these new GreenSpot.travel itineraries:

El Salvador Volcanoes & Surf Adventure
Bet you didn’t know the little country of El Salvador had multiple volcanoes, some of the best surfing in the world, indigenous villages up in the highlands and opportunities for mountain biking and ziplining! This vacation is designed for the adventurous…read more.

Trip Length: 8 days; Activity Level: Moderate; Price: From $1,350 per person based on double occupancy. Call GreenSpot.travel anytime: 1.877.891.3539 or email:  info@greenspottravel.org

Culture & Unexplored Highlands of El Salvador
Get ready for something new all you culture junkies. This vacation is designed to let you in on some of El Salvador’s fascinating secrets. On this trip you will see a true convergence of the old and new, traditional and modern, with colonial villages, world class art museums and galleries, indigenous highland villages, mystical healing traditions and rituals…read more.

Trip Length: 9 days; Activity Level: Moderate; Price: From $1,400 per person based on double occupancy. Call GreenSpot.travel anytime 877.891.3539 or email:  info@greenspottravel.org

Coming soon at G.A.P Adventures:

Voluntourism with a Coffee Cooperative
Designed by EcoExperiencias and G.A.P Adventures, this incredible experience takes place at a picturesque coffee cooperative that extends from the high volcanic ridge to the shores of Lake Coatepeque, an ancient crater lake, nominated as one of 2008’s new Natural Wonders of the World.  Travelers will be involved in efforts to improve the coffee farmers’ quality of life, from helping to develop a new ecotourism program, building projects, assisting on the coffee farm and teaching a few simple English lessons. Throughout the stay participants will learn about the community’s efforts to improve their lives through the development of ecotourism on their property. By combining volcanic highlands tours and internationally renowned surfing beaches among other activities, this tour is an excellent opportunity to experience El Salvador’s most impressive attractions.

G.A.P. Adventures:  http://www.gapadventures.com

Explore cultural and natural wonders of El Salvador with EcoExperiencias El Salvador, while supporting local economies and biodiversity conservation in this new and exciting destination.  http://www.elsalvadorexperience.com/?lang=2