Yukon’s Wild
Set aside, for a moment, your thoughts of the gold rush, paddlewheel boats, and bearded trappers tromping through winter drifts, because Canada’s Yukon Territory is an emerging destination rife with new adventures.
An unspoiled land roughly the size of Germany, Holland, and Belgium combined, the Yukon is home to only 33,000 people. That’s no typo, this vast and unspoiled land is home to less people than what most professional sports stadiums hold – and 75% of them all live in the territorial capital of Whitehorse.
Such a small population means that there is no end of opportunity to get outside and escape into solitude, while the constant summer sunlight (‘sunset’ in June is around 12:30 AM and ‘sunrise’ is about 3:30 AM, although even when the sun does dip below the horizon, there is still ample light to see by) allows you to bike, kayak, fish, hike, or float the night away.
As a jump off point, the rustically hip Whitehorse provides a variety of opportunities to recover from your activities with good restaurants, energetic bars, and quality hotels. But before you quaff that pint of Yukon Gold beer (“The beer worth freezing for”) or fall into blissful night’s sleep behind thick blackout curtains, you’ve got to earn your treats by first personally experiencing the majesty of this untrammeled land.
Kayaking
Yukon is home to a myriad of lakes, seven major ones located within an easy drive of downtown Whitehorse. Try retailer and outfitter Up North Adventures for your gear, guided paddling, and lessons. Then slide your boat into the azure waters of nearby Chadburn Lake, still within Whitehorse city limits, for serene paddling among an imposing backdrop of stunning, snowcapped mountains. Keep an eye on the shore for a chance to spot bear, moose, or bald eagles and other migratory birds.
Hiking
Kluane National Park and Reserve is part of the largest internationally protected wilderness area in the world in conjunction with Wrangell- St Elias National Park and Preserve, Glacier Bay National Park and Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Wilderness Park. This spectacular wilderness preserve was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1925.
Head past Haines Junction (230 kilometers West from Whitehorse), to the Sheep Creek Trailhead, for a chance to view big horn sheep (and in spring their lambs) on the aptly named Sheep Mountain. If you are even luckier, you might even spot a lynx. Spend a moment atop Shepard’s Hill to gaze in awe at the majesty of the Kaskawulsh glacial valley that runs into the aquamarine waters of Kluane Lake.

Other local hikes, such as Kings Throne or Auriol Trail are great for day hikes or to launch a multi-day trip into the backcountry. Take the time to explore ghost towns like Silver City but do note that, as with anywhere in the Yukon, packing bear spray is a must.
Mountain Biking
If you are looking to escape the mountain biking masses, the Yukon is the place for you. The quant community of Carcross boasts Montana Mountain’s new trail system which is virtually untouched by the crowds, especially as new trails are still being constructed. Some dedicated young locals, working on a project spearheaded by the local first nations, have made it their mission to establish a serious trail system here and they are well on their way. (A new operator, Boreale Mountain Biking, leads bike tours and also has yurt accommodations available.)
Work your way up the old mining road here to provide the gravity needed to speed down the new single track carved out of game trails and previously overgrown mining grades. Upper and Lower Tin Cup trails are particularly sweet rides while the Sam McGee trail is not to be missed.

After the tracks spit you out of tree line, you’ll find yourself in the middle of Carcross, where the original White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad train station and general store stand ready to provide you with snacks, drinks, and some great history lessons about this First Nations community.
Kiteboarding
Carcross is not only an emerging mountain biking hub, it’s also the home of the famous wind blown Lake Bennett, a primo spot for kite surfing. Consistent 25-35 km winds ensure no end of power for your board.
Sandboarding – in the World’s Smallest Desert?
On the way out of Carcross and back to Whitehorse, make sure to also stop off at what might be the world’s smallest desert.
Originally covered by a large glacial lake, the tiny Carcross Desert was created when retreating waters allowed the sandy lake bottom to be left behind. Strong winds from Lake Bennet have made it difficult for vegetation to gain a toehold, creating roughly two square kilometers of sand dunes lying smack dab in the midst of Yukon greenery.
For sandboarding, it’s easy, nearly roadside access to short runs of clean, fine grain that’s fast. You can shoot the trees and the views are incredible.
Flightseeing
Just north of Haines Junction, link up with flight-seeing operators Icefield Discovery for flights over the aquamarine Kluane Lake waters, up the awesome Kaskawulsh glacier, and to the icefields near Canada’s highest peak, Mt. Logan. Weather permitting, a landing and short hike at the Icefield Discovery Base (2500m) on the glacier, completes your introduction to the St. Elias Mountains.
Whitewater Rafting
Rock and roll through grade II through IV rapids on the Tatshenshini river, a popular trip for both locals and visitors. Drive the 30 scenic minutes north from Haines Junction on Haines Road (keep an eye peeled on the meadows to spot foraging bears), and drop in on Tatshenshini Expeditions. This fun-focused outfitter will provide you with the appropriate equipment and know-how for an excellent half-day of running glacier-fed rapids down box valleys where bald eagles often nest.
Waterborne Safari
For a truly unique adventure, join Great River Journey for an upscale eight-day wilderness safari down the historic Yukon River. Board their unique 38-foot, covered riverboat equipped with first-class seating, GPS map display, and stunning 360-degree views.

Great River’s unique crafts travel 600 kilometers through the Yukon’s unspoiled wilderness. Guests rest and recuperate each night at their lodges, pampering you with first-class, private accommodations (including in-suite bathrooms) and traditional meals at night while by day steeping you in the Yukon’s rich history and culture as you explore historical geological and First Nation settings. Beginning in Whitehorse, the journey passes through the traditional lands of four First Nation partners and ends in Dawson City, center of the Klondike Gold Rush of 1898.
Accommodations
Within Whitehorse’s 414 square kilometers, you’ll find plenty of accommodations, from accessible hotels that position you for a variety of downtown exploits to remote lakeside cabins that provide exemplary meals and pampering service.
Inn on the Lake – Serene log-cabin lodge and outlying cabins on the shores of Marsh Lake, 30 minute drive from downtown Whitehorse, offering exceptional meals and nicely appointed rooms. (867) 660-5253
Visit Inn on the Lake

High Country Inn – Enjoy a luxurious Jacuzzi suite, casual dining with real Yukon flavor, or a catering team led by a gourmet French-trained chef, the High Country Inn will spoil you. (867) 667-4471
Visit High Country Inn
Edgewater Hotel – Locally owned and family operated, Yukon’s Premier Boutique Hotel with deluxe rooms and suites at its downtown location. (867) 667-2572
Visit Edgewater Hotel
Westmark Hotel – Comfortable rooms and warm northern hospitality . (867) 393-9700
Visit Westmark Hotel
Adventure Operators
yukonWILD
Yukon’s Adventure Experts! Managed by the Wilderness Tourism Association of the Yukon, the co-operative marketing program introduces adventurous travelers to exceptionally guided adventure product.
Visit yukonWILD
Great River Journey
Offers a unique exclusive eight-day wilderness safari down the Yukon River. Journey back in time by riverboat and float plane to small, remote historically themed lodges. Fine dining, private luxurious cabins, Klondike Gold Rush, First Nations culture and natural interpretation.
Visit Great River Journey
Dining
Giorgio’s Cucina
Specializing in Greek cuisine, a downtown dining favorite. (867) 668-4050
Klondike Rib & Salmon
The line-up waiting down the street of this restaurant disguised as a mining tent, tells you all you need to know. Do not skimp out: be sure to order the ‘Bumbleberry’ Pie ala mode. (867) 667-7554
Baked Café
Local hotspot café. Drop in for excellent pastries, an assortment of fair-trade coffees and inviting daily lunch specials. (867) 633-6291
Special Events
The Yukon River Quest
The Yukon River Quest is the longest annual canoe and kayak race in the world. Except for a mandatory rest stop totaling seven hours, paddlers race non-stop over the 742 kilometers (460 miles) to Dawson City. Held annually during the last week of June (around the summer solstice), it is a true “Race to the Midnight Sun” and recognized as one of the toughest adventure marathon events in the world.
Teams compete for more than $30,000 in prize money in various categories, but many do the race for the personal satisfaction of staking their claim to a coveted finisher pin.
The Yukon Quest International Sled Dog Race
The annual Yukon Quest is an epic winter sports event in February that covers 1,000 miles between Whitehorse and Fairbanks, Alaska.
It has been run every year since 1984 over the 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of rough, sometimes hazardous terrain and the start alternates annually between the two host cities.
Yukon Quest mushers come from all walks of life while their dogs are bred from stock that survived and thrived during the Klondike Gold Rush. Teams compete for a total of USD $200,000 for what many consider to be the toughest dog sled race in the world.
Local Flavor
Yukon Artists @ Work
A spacious artist-run co-op gallery features the diverse work of 35 Yukon artists, including flat works like painting and photography, sculpture, and jewelry. It is just 10 minutes south of downtown Whitehorse.
Visit Yukon Artist At Work
Mac’s Fireweed Books
Offers an eclectic array of books and publications, including (of course) Robert Service and Jack London.
Visit Mac’s Fireweed Books
Coast Mountain Sports
Providing technical outdoor equipment and clothing for outdoor enthusiasts for over 20 years
Visit Coast Mountain Sports
Getting there
Fly direct to Whitehorse from Vancouver on Air Canada or on the local carrier, Air North. While Air North’s ‘fleet’ is currently only six aircraft, the airline more than makes up for a limited flight schedule with sincere customer service, attentive flight attendants, in-flight meals (remember those?), and by serving really good local coffee. Many local residents have actually invested in Air North, making it truly ‘Yukon’s Airline.’
You can drive the historic and majestic Alaska Highway to Whitehorse, or, better still, book transportation from British Columbia on the Alaska Marine Highway and travel the spectacular West Coast via ferry to Prince Rupert, and then on to Skagway, Alaska. www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs
Photos courtesy of A. Hafele, ExOfficio and Chris Chesak, ATTA
December 30, 2008
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